Shimla

Speaking on the occasion, Kishan Kapoor, the minister for handloom and handicrafts said, the government was making all efforts to protect the Geographical Indicator (GI) status of Kullu shawls and the corporation would only sell genuine products through its online marketing channel.

He said that to enforce the GI status of Kullu Shawls, a society had been constituted which would rope in all existing weavers society in Kullu valley to make them compliant with the norms required. “No power loom product or any from out of the state would be permitted to be sold under the Kullu Shawl brand,” he said.

He said that the demand for Himachali handicrafts was increasing and it was to make the product available to domestic and international customers that the e-commerce channel had been launched. Online shoppers would get the products at a discount over retail outlets, he added.

Efforts of the corporation entailed reviving extinct arts, design development, skill generation, production in workshops and marketing of the products through a chain of emporia, exhibitions and expositions, he said.

In all, the corporation operated 15 sale outlets within the state and one each in Bangalore and Delhi. In the 30 exhibitions organized during the current fiscal, a sale of Rs 82 lakhs had been recorded, which was much higher than the Rs 45 lakhs achieved last time.

Supported by the central ministry of textiles, a Rs 2 Cr project for the benefit for 5000 weavers in Kullu handloom cluster was under implementation, said Kapoor. Other than that Rs 44.20 lakh project for Mandi handloom cluster and another Rs 55.15 Lakh project for Kinnaur handloom cluster were being executed for the benefit of weavers, the minister said.

Lalit Mohan, CEO disclosed that efforts were being made to revive the corporation and it had recorded an Rs 10 crore revenue in 2008-09. The corporations has an accumulated debt burden of Rs 17 crore, he added.

The beneficiary weaver shall be eligible to spend upto Rs 7,500 per annum on their treatment in any of the hospitals or clinics, as outdoor patient, while as indoor patient, in any of the enlisted hospitals of the State Government the upper limit would be Rs 15,000 per annum, a cabinet spokesman stated.

Beneficiaries would only need to contribute Rs 95.20 as annual premium for availing health insurance cover while the rest of the premium shall be borne by the state, he added.

Presided over by the chief minister Prem Kumar Dhumal the increased health cover decision of the cabinet would benefit about 16,000 weaver families across Himachal in the current year.

Weeklong Winter session from December 14

Cabinet decided to recommend convening a week long Winter Session of Himachal Pradesh Legislative Assembly at Dharamshala from December 14 to 21, 2009.

Approval for revised guidelines for setting up of universities in the private sector as per the amended guidelines was accorded.

Riverbeds to be auctioned for mining

The cabinet amended river – stream bed mining policy guidelines by going in for auctions for permitting the activity to extract sand, stone, and gravel (bajri) for open sale whereas mining lease would only be granted on private lands

However, neither auction shall be done nor mining lease for open sale of mineral shall be granted in border areas like Nalagarh Sub-Division and Kasauli Tehsil of district Solan; Chakki Khad and Neugal Khad in district Kangra; and Seer Khad passing through the districts of Bilaspur and Hamirpur, where there are chances of over exploitation of river/stream beds and illegal transportation of mineral outside the State.

Other border areas shall also be included on the basis of study being conducted. Leases for free sale upto area measuring 5 hectare for a period of upto 5 years in areas shall be granted in private land subject to the condition that no bounders/cobbles/hand broken road ballast shall be allowed to be transported outside the State.

Fresh bids to be invited for power projects

Cabinet approved re-advertising of hydropower projects Dugar (236 MW); Kilhi Bahl (7.5 MW); Mane Nadang (70 MW); Lara (60 MW); Tingret (81 MW); Kuling Lara (40 MW) and Suil (13 MW) HEP and sort to invite fresh bids in accordance with the new power policy.

To curb frequency of road accidents, the cabinet decided to make licensing regime more stringent, where all the provisions of the Motor Vehicles Act. 1988 and Rules would be implemented in letter and spirit before issuance of driving licenses.

To curb reckless driving, violation and non-adherence of time table by the stage carriage operators offences shall be compounded under Section 192-A of the Act which provides for penalty ranging between Rs. 2,000 to Rs. 10,000, the cabinet spokesman said.

Government to charge royalty from small hydro

Cabinet accepted recommendations of the Himachal Pradesh Infrastructure Development Board about claiming free power towards royalty from the Independent Power Producers (IPPs) of Small Hydro Projects upto 5 MW capacity, as per the revised Power Policy of the State in cases where Implementation Agreements are yet to be entered into.

At the same time Independent Power Producers who had not started work on their projects would henceforth be closely monitored and reviewed. Show cause notice would be issued on non-serious IPPs allotments, which could be cancelled.

The cabinet decided to invite Expression of Interests as per the survey conducted by M/s RITES for construction of ropeways from Neugal to (Kandi) Palampur and Shah Talai to Deoth Siddh.

It granted permission for conduct of Common Entrance Test for admission to 1,923 seats for 2 Year JBT Course/Session 2009-11.

It granted approval to renew the Government Employees Group Insurance Scheme to provide insurance cover to all the government employees upto Rs 2 lakh.

To tune up with changing requirements, the cabinet approved amendments in the HP State Guest Rules.

It decided to lift ban on seating capacity of maxi cab imposed earlier which shall now be permitted to ply vehicles with sitting capacity upto 12 instead of 9 plus 1 allowed earlier.

Cabinet approved filling up of 20 posts of constables on regular basis on compassionate grounds from amongst the dependents of deceased police personnel who have died in harness and 2 posts of stenographers in the Department of Labour and Employment.

The cabinet also condoled the death of the bus accident victims which took place at Haripur in district Kangra recently.

Kulu shawls, once the pride of Himachal, face a major threat from powerloom weavers of Ludhiana. The industry needs a strong influx of revenue. Privatisation and increased market accessibility are areas that should be targeted. Reviving the ailing industry would also give a boost to the state economy.

THE tradition of making the famous Kulu shawls is dying. My Himachal, an NGO, has offered a marketing mechanism to the state government to revive this unique handicraft industry. It is now up to the government to take the necessary steps.

Lack of initiative to publicise the shawl industry has not only dampened the spirits of weavers of Kulu, but has also affected the buyers’ interest

Before formulating the mechanism, the NGO, with students of the SP Jain Institute of Management and Research, Mumbai, had done two surveys recently. The need of the hour, according to the surveys, was effective marketing planning to save the industry from extinction. Reviving the ailing industry would also give a boost to the state economy.

The general feeling that one can get a better variety of the shawls elsewhere in Himachal has contributed to the gradual loss of interest in the art. The shawl has a huge cultural linkage to the Kulu valley. Lack of initiatives to publicise this industry has not only dampened the spirits of the shawl weavers of Kulu but has also adversely affected the buyers’ interest to a great extent.

The authentic Kulu shawl retains more warmth. The dyes used are organic, eco-friendly and non-toxic. The original shawl is longer lasting because the fibre is subjected to lesser stress than machine shawls. The buyers get tempted to buy cheap and fake Kulu shawls because they have not seen the authentic ones. The fake Kulu handwoven shawls are sourced mainly from Ludhiana. Some are handwoven but not made in the Kulu region.

The major threat to Kulu weavers is mainly from powerloom weavers of Ludhiana, whose low cost of raw materials allows them to sell shawls at reduced prices. These shawls are elaborately designed with finer fabric and offered in a wide variety of colours. Therefore, they look more attractive to the consumer.

But a discerning customer feels cheated when he realises that the shawl is neither handwoven nor authentic Kulu shawl. For him, the difference between an authentic Kulu shawl and a machine-made one is subtle. A distinguishing test for such critical value-driven consumers is to check if the design appears the same on both sides of the shawl. If it does, then that is an indication that the shawl is handcrafted.

The shawls stamped with trademarks of the original Kulu weavers indicate the authenticity of the material. These steps have been taken up by the government and weavers’ cooperative societies in Kulu to prevent imitation.

The government has introduced the handloom mark, which is a certification that the product is handcrafted and not machine made The government has introduced the handloom mark, which is a certification that the product is handcrafted and not machine made

Woolmark certification establishes the quality of raw materials used. Hence, though the raw material is sourced from the same location, the presence of the woolmark label on the shawls of some of the influential businessmen attracts a large number of quality-conscious consumers to these branded shawls. However, the exorbitant fee required to acquire this certification has kept others away from applying for it.

The Government of India has introduced the handloom mark, which is a certification that the product is handcrafted and not machine made. While some weavers incorporate this mark to establish their credibility, there is a major reluctance in getting the mark stamped as a cross-section of the weavers and consumers do not know the importance of this mark. Also, this mark doesn’t help in distinguishing if the shawls are made in the Kulu valley or elsewhere.

Hence, in order to combat competition from shawls that are sourced from outside and labelled as Kulu shawls, the district has acquired a geographical indicator (GI). The GI mark signifies that the product has been handcrafted in Kulu district. The Kulu shawl industry can be revived if consumers and manufacturers are made aware of these authentication marks.

The government should put pressure on the bodies concerned such as the Kulu Shawl Weavers Association (KSWA) and the Science and Technology Department to ensure implementation of the GI. The GI would go a long way in reviving this unique art of Himachal.

Says Avnish Katoch, president of My Himachal: “Kulu weavers are leaving this industry now, thanks to the lack of monetary benefits and the sheer taxing nature of the job. The industry needs a strong influx of revenue, which in turn will lead to more wages for the weavers. It is with this overall objective in mind, that privatisation and increased market accessibility are areas that are being targeted by us in our proposed mechanism. Moreover, an effective online sales channel through which Kulu handloom products can be showcased on the websites of private players will go a long way in exposing this industry to markets across the globe. This will allow sellers to cater to the demands in countries of Europe and America.”

Cooperative societies which are involved in the making of authentic handwoven Kulu shawls should be registered to showcase their products on the website. The benefits of such a plan are immense. On the suppliers’ side, it opens up untapped markets and multiple marketing channels to the cooperatives. It creates a sustained demand and gives them access to latest consumer trends. Also, it brings in much- needed work ethics and, most importantly, boosts the economy of the state.

On the buyers’ side, it gives them the “first mover advantage” (access to authentic handwoven products that have the finest quality and finish), and also leads to increased revenues at minimal costs, since the set-up is already there. It greatly enhances their existing brand image, says Katoch.

The major stakeholders in this industry need to get involved. The state government must encourage this plan and support it in every possible way. In association with the Tourism Department, a mechanism should be set up to invite private parties into this market. Substantial benefits should be provided to them. Regular promotional campaigns should be conducted, highlighting the initiatives taken to sustain this industry. Cooperatives must be encouraged to get out of their bureaucratic mould and develop a more aggressive nature towards business, adds Katoch.

Also appeared on Sunday Tribune.

Shimla: To even out the challenges posed by synthetic yarns and keep the primacy of Himachali woollens, the government has launched two projects for sheep breeders to improve the genetic stock of animals and obtain better quality of wool.

Two projects worth Rs 9.41 crore under the integrated wool development program have been launched for improving the lot of sheep breeders, said a government spokesman. State wool federation is implementing agency, he said.

Besides the Gaddi community, sheep rearing, a traditional activity employs many highlanders in Mandi, Chamba, Kullu, Kangra, Shimla and Kinnaur districts. The state has an estimated population of about 9 lakh sheep, said the official spokesman.

Of the two projects, a Rs 7.01 crore project proposes to genetically improve the Gaddi sheep that are mainly localised to Mandi, Chamba, Kullu and Kangra districts. The other, Rs 2.40 crore is for genetic improvement of the Rampur Busheri sheep spread out over Shimla and Kinnaur districts.

After putting up these projects before the Jodhpur based wool improvement department of the union textile ministry, an amount of Rs 2.24 crore stand released as first instalment for the three year project, the spokesman stated.

As a first step, registration of sheep in Mandi, Kangra, Kullu and Chamba districts is being undertaken so that the benefits of the scheme reach genuine breeders.

An assistance of Rs 25 lakh has been provided to wool federation for purchase of 5 shearing machines. These machines have been deployed at multipurpose extension centres so that sheep breeders can that they can avail machine shearing, which is not only faster but improves quality of wool.

An amount of Rs 16 lakh is earmarked for marketing assistance. Funds can be availed for collection, packaging, storage and transportation so sheep farmers can get remunerative price for the wool.

A grant of Rs 72 lakh is to be disbursed for medical facilities for the sheep, which includes free medicines for the about 4 lakh registered sheep @ Rs 18 per animal. To improve veterinary services an amount Rs 1.20 crore has been marked for institutions.

To provide an insurance cover for the shepherds, the government in collaboration with Life Insurance Corp (LIC) have brought 4373 breeders under an insurance cover. The cover for an accidental death is Rs 1.50 lakh and for a natural death of a sheep breeder is Rs 60,000/-. Children of shepherds are being given educational scholarships.

A revolving fund of Rs 30 lakh with Wool Federation, a state entity, timely procures wool from the market around the year, helping the breeder from resorting to distress sales during off-season periods.

In a significant development, My Himachal an NGO with the help students of S.P.Jain Institute of Management and Research, Mumbai has come up with proposed implementation plan to revive the crumbling Kullu Handloom Industry. It is in fact, now in the hand of state government to take the plan seriously and try to do something concrete to save this age old art.

Ironically last year too, My Himachal with students of same institute had found out the reasons behind tottering weaving industries and suggested the ways out. A NGO-students deputation met concerned officials and minister over the matter and even handed over their findings to the CM.

A free health insurance was extended to all weavers in the valley soon after the deputation met CM. However going by the present deplorable condition of industry, these measures will not be able to survive the art. The certain steps are required, without which the art may become a thing of past.

Pooja Adiga and Ajay Simha the students of Institute have chalked out a revival mechanism for this industry. The co-operative societies, who are involved in the making of authentic hand woven Kullu shawls, should be registered with the buyer. The terms and conditions can be mutually agreed upon and are then they allow showcasing their products on the websites, the students point out. Currently, Bodh Shawls and Ganapathi Co-operative have expressed an interest in this venture. The students are also in the process of identifying other interested co-operatives by seeking help from bodies such as HIMBUNKAR. The certain parameters such as quality check and supply-demand equilibrium are currently being looked into. The proposal is that, My Himachal shall do the quality check before the products are being shipped out to their respective locations, besides ensuring a steady supply of goods throughout the year.

The benefits of such a plan are immense, feel Pooja and Ajay. On the supplier side, it opens up untapped markets and multiple marketing channels to the co-operatives. It creates sustained demand and gives them access to latest consumer trends. Also, it brings in a much needed work ethic and most importantly boosts the current state of the industry. On the buyer side, it gives them a First Mover Advantage (access to authentic hand woven products that have the finest quality and finish) and also leads to increased revenues at minimal costs, since the setup is already there. It also greatly enhances their existing brand image whilst boosting their CSR initiatives.

The major hurdles in this are power loom players, lack of awareness amongst weavers and co-operatives, lack of a progressive attitude, lack of proper implementation of the GI and the handloom mark as well as ineffectiveness or the lack of government policies.

To annual the impact of these obstacles, major stakeholders in this industry like government, bodies such as HIMBUNKAR need to be get involved actively. In association with the Tourism Department, a mechanism should be setup to invite private players into this market. Apart from privatization and increased market accessibility, there are many other things that will also ensure revival of this industry. Important amongst them is product diversification. The success of privatization would eventually lead to this, but it is important for suppliers to diversify their existing product portfolio to cater to a larger base of consumers. Access to latest consumer trends would help them create / obtain better designs for their products, and here again, the govt can ensure access to both.

The Geographical Indicator (GI) for Kullu shawls that was approved in 2006 hasn’t moved much since. The GI would go a long way in preventing cannibalization from power loom players thereby setting the base for the revival.

GI can be a lifeline for Kullu shawl!

GI is a name or sign used on certain products which correspond to a specific geographical location and origin. The use of a GI acts as a certification that the product possesses certain qualities, or enjoys a certain reputation, due to its geographical origin.

GI has proved to be very valuable as it identifies the source of the product and is an indicator of quality. It highlights the peculiar qualities of a product, which are due to human factors, such as specific manufacturing skills and traditions. GI can be life saviour for gradually dying art. Yet, the imitations stuffs have not only flooded the market but also offer whopping discounts to tourists. GI, if implemented, prevents sale of non Kullu shawls. It also prevents proprietors from using the name “Kullu shawls” if they are produced outside of the defined geographical territory of Kullu valley. It is interesting to note that unauthorized shopkeepers or producers cannot even use sign boards/hoardings of selling Kullu shawls. In the event of anyone found selling fake shawls, a huge penalty will be imposed on them or imprisonment of 6 months to 3 years or both under the GI Act of 1999.

The KSWA took the initiative and registered Kullu Shawl as a GI in 2006. Ever since, there has been slow progress on the implementation. The registration has an expiry period of 10 years before it has to be renewed again, of which 3 years are already lost trying to get things implemented.

The logo, which is a representative of Kullu shawls as a GI, is yet to be finalised and this has largely due to the miscommunication between the Department of Science and Technology and KSWA. Also, the KSWA hasn’t got adequate resources even to set up a working office in the valley and has applied for funds which have to go through the layers of bureaucracy and red tape at the government level.

The major retailers of the state have a lot to lose if the GI is implemented because they cannot sell just any shawl as a Kullu shawl to the guileless tourist. And because of this there is an underlying, subtle resistance to the implementation.

Over the last 3 years, the government, despite its best efforts hasn’t been able to do much in this regard. But the problem here does not lie in a lack of effort, but it lies in a lack of “channelized” effort. The government must appoint an independent person to look into this matter immediately.

Stalled Saviour

A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on certain products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin. The use of a GI acts as a certification that the product possesses certain qualities, or enjoys a certain reputation, due to its geographical origin.

Geographical indications have proved to be very valuable as it identifies the source of the product and is an indicator of quality. Most commonly, a geographical indication consists of the name of the place, which is the origin of the goods, such as “Darjeeling” (India) for tea, “Swiss” (Switzerland) for chocolate, “Roquefort” (France) for cheese etc.

GI highlights the peculiar qualities of a product, which are due to human factors, such as specific manufacturing skills and traditions. Geographical indications in India have been Basmati Rice, Darjeeling Tea, Kangra Tea, Alphonso Mango, Alleppey Green Cardamom, Coorg Cardamom, Kanchipuram Silk Saree, Kohlapuri Chappal etc to name a few.

In the case of Kullu Shawls, the GI should have been a saviour to the slow dying art. Yet, the imitations (from power loom shawls manufactured in Ludhiana) not only flood the market with cheap and inferior varieties of shawls but also offer huge discounts to tourists. The authentic shawls have acquired valuable reputations, which, due to inadequate protection, have been misappropriated by fraudulent commercial operators. Indiscriminate use of the Kullu name by unauthorized parties is detrimental both to the consumers and the weavers. The former are deceived into buying products which are, in fact, worthless imitations. While for the latter, valuable business is taken away from them and the established reputation for their products is damaged.

The GI, if implemented, prevents sale of non Kullu shawls. It also prevents proprietors from using the name “Kullu shawls” if they are produced outside of the defined geographical territory of Kullu Valley Region of Himachal State. It is interesting to note that unauthorized shopkeepers or producers cannot even use sign boards/hoardings of selling Kullu shawls. In the event of anyone found selling fake shawls, a huge penalty will be imposed on them or imprisonment of 6 months to 3 years or both under the GI Act of 1999.

The KSWA, Kullu Shawls Weavers Association, comprising of the key players of all the major stakeholders in the region took the initiative and registered Kullu Shawl as a geographical indicator in 2006. Ever since, there has been slow progress on the implementation. And the registration has an expiry period of 10 years before it has to be renewed again, of which 3 years are already lost trying to get things implemented.

The KSWA, which plays a key part in the implementation of the GI, is busy identifying the number of local household and commercial weavers whose shawls could be given a GI mark to protect them from imitations. This has been an ongoing process for the last two years.

The process has been painstakingly slow because the weaving industry in the Kullu valley is disorganised to the highest degree possible. Weavers are scattered in remote parts of the valley and also, weaving, over the course of the years has primarily become a part time occupation. Hence the weavers, to whom the GI is most beneficial to, aren’t too concerned with the status and aren’t applying pressure on the authorities to speed up the process.

The logo, which is a representative of Kullu shawls as a GI, is yet to be finalised and this has largely due to the miscommunication between the Department of Science and Technology and KSWA. Also, the KSWA hasn’t got adequate resources even to set up a working office in the valley and has applied for funds which have to go through the layers of bureaucracy and red tape at the government level.

The major retailers of the state have a lot to lose if the GI is implemented because they cannot sell just any shawl as a Kullu shawl to the guileless tourist. And because of this there is an underlying, subtle resistance to the implementation.

Over the last 3 years, the government, despite its best efforts hasn’t been able to do much in this regard. But the problem here does not lie in a lack of effort, but it lies in a lack of “channelized” effort. The government must appoint an independent person to look into this matter immediately. This person must be responsible for bringing the various bodies / administrations (KSWA, Science and Technology Dept, Wool Board, etc) to task, thereby bringing some structure to this mess and must command an authority greater than everybody else. It is only when all the responsible organizations are made accountable for and are answerable to one single person, will there be a strong information flow which then would lead to substantial progress.

To support the government, other stakeholders who are directly affected by this industry, such as NGO’s working in this area, co-operative societies, weavers and the consumers themselves must regularly follow up and get concerned people to make themselves accountable. NGO’s must give locals who are interested in this cause a platform to contribute and air their opinion. NGO’s must also try and bring in the media to highlight the state of this implementation. Co-operatives and weavers directly affected by this stalemate must seek answers from concerned authorities. And finally, consumers need to be more discerning and try and find solutions to questions that are quite easily buried deep down. Only this kind of pressure, when applied from all possible directions, would get the sleeping authorities to wake up and handle the situation at hand.

From the above paragraphs, one can easily understand that there are enough of more reasons why many people in the valley would not want the Gl to be implemented. But for the benefit of those few who are indulging in ethical business practices, the GI comes as a saviour. It is for these few that the GI should be pushed till its implementation because only then can the true sheen of this industry be protected. However, if this lackadaisical attitude continues, then it won’t be too long before another chapter in India’s rich culture and possibly Himachal’s richest culture erases itself and dies a very sad death.

The above article has been written by Pooja Adiga and Ajay Simha. Both of them are students of S.P. Jain Institute of Management and Research, Mumbai. They are currently on a 6 week internship with My Himachal as part of their DOCC (Development of Corporate Citizenship) program. They are working with MyHimachal to put into place a strong revival mechanism for the traditional Kullu Shawl weaving industry and one of their immediate plans includes pushing for the implementation of the Kullu Shawl Geographical Indicator (GI).

Kullu:

But setting up a supply chain is easier said than done. Some of the issues that have come up are inherent to this industry and its people. We have tried to highlight some of these issues and their reasons from the perspective of both the co-operative society and the weaver.

One of the foremost problems is the fact that the supply of authentic shawls is majorly only in the valley (mostly for tourists) and this market is still uneducated about the differences between a hand woven authentic Kullu shawl and a power loom shawl. But yet the demand exists amongst connoisseurs and discerning customers outside of the valley, not just in India but in various parts of the globe as well. Tapping this demand requires a steady supply of shawls going from the valley to various parts of the country and around the world. This however, is proving to be a challenge on multiple grounds. Primary among them is the fact that the big players in the valley produce only enough to feed their retail chains and small export markets (via government organised handloom exhibitions). But, the problem doesn’t entirely lie with the management of these organizations. They aren’t willing to expand because of the decreasing number of weavers in the valley who are willing to work full time. Also the incentive to recruit more weavers is low for these societies because of the unavailability of raw material and in house finishing facilities.

At the worker level, more and more weavers are leaving this profession and seeking employment in horticulture, tourism and recently, even hydropower stations. And as the standard of living increases people are reluctant to enter this profession. Major portion of the existing weavers are only part time. They divide their time between agriculture and weaving and weaving takes the back seat for most part of the year. This is extremely saddening, considering weaving in the valley was once a revered task. Now weaving, which has become a poor man’s occupation, pays on an average Rs 120 per day. And since the wages are paid piece wise, a weaver will have to put in a good 8 hrs of work before he gets as much.

This has led to a vicious circle today, leaving us unable to identify and address the root cause of the problem. Complicating matters further is the fact that the problems don’t end here.

The government, on its part has tried to revive the industry by introducing various subsidies and schemes for the co-operatives which should have helped reduce the deterioration in the number of weavers. But a lot of these societies are only on paper. They claim the subsidies, show losses on fictitious assets and purloin the money. This underlying corruption combined with the massive bureaucratic structures of functioning co-operatives has ensured that the money rarely filters down to the grass root level. Also, small scale industries / co-operatives that claim aid from The Department of Industries have to show a minimum of 3 years profits before they can do so. While this is expected to streamline the funds to the truly deserving co-operatives, it doesn’t do much to the struggling & relatively new societies that need help in their formative years.

Another major road block is the inherent lassitude amongst people in the area. It prevails in all levels; government officials to weavers. The weavers are complacent, are tuned to the seasonal nature of demand (May-July, November-January) and are hardly aware of the schemes that should actually benefit them.

Topping it all is the sheer lack of awareness amongst the consumer that has already been spoken about extensively. A local tourist with average purchasing power is only looking for a souvenir from the place and this need of his is satiated as long as the shawl is bought in Kullu, irrespective of where or how it’s made.

But despite these complexities, there is hope. There is a chance of revival of this industry because of the rapidly growing demand for socially conscious products; products that are known to make a difference to a community or a tradition, but it can be hard to reach these consumers directly. In order to do so, we have to address the above mentioned issues and ensure that the industry moves out of its existing downward spiral.

This is going to be our concerted effort and any help garnered in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

The above article has been written by Pooja Adiga and Ajay Simha. Both of them are students of S.P. Jain Institute of Management and Research, Mumbai. They are currently on a 6 week internship with My Himachal as part of their DOCC (Development of Corporate Citizenship) program. They are working with My Himachal to put into place a strong revival mechanism for the traditional Kullu Shawl weaving industry and one of their immediate plans includes the privatization of this industry.

A number of steps have been taken to combat the entry of these power loom players, thereby ensuring that Kullu continues to remain famous for its authentic handmade woollen products. These include the creation and approval of the Geographical Indicator (GI) and the presence of the handloom mark and Woolmark. This however, has not deterred the power loom players from continuing to grab the market, an outcome largely due to the existing nexus between the power loom retailers and other key stakeholders in the area.

A campaign to create awareness of this problem was launched last year, titled “Save the Weaver”. The campaign had tremendous reach and impact thereby educating the local consumer about the industry and its problems. It also helped to bring to light; existing threats that plague the industry and the desperate need for co-operation and innovation to revive and keep alive the long standing culture of this region.

As a follow up measure to the campaign, the most important step now is to cash in on the awareness generated and implement certain concrete plans to ensure the long term survival of this industry. Primary among them is the need for privatization. Privatization of this industry would benefit both the weavers and the private players in a number of ways:

Benefits to the weavers:

• Opening up of new untapped markets and multiple marketing channels, especially the internet
• Exposure to foreign markets thereby creating sustained demand
• A platform for the long term revival of this industry
• Ability to combat the threat of power looms
• Continuous access to latest consumer trends
• Creation of a strong quality check process that enhances the value of these products
• Establishment of a certain work ethic that regulates the industry and creates stable job opportunities

Benefits to private players:

• A strong competitive edge by capturing the first mover advantage
• Leveraging on their existing distribution channels to showcase newer products, basically – increased revenues at minimal costs
• Revival of the Kullu handloom industry thereby ensuring a continuous stream of revenues and profits
• Creation of a brand that showcases Indian handloom products to the world
• Creation of Kullu as an export hub

However, just like any other plan, this one is ridden with a number of obstacles as well. Some of the immediate obstacles are as follows:

• Cannibalization by power loom products
• The lack of awareness amongst the weavers about the sheer market potential of their products
• Lack of government policies and the ineffectiveness of the Apex Body and other numerous associations
• Lack of proper implementation of the GI and Handloom Mark
• Lack of a progressive attitude amongst the co-operatives and the weavers themselves
• More number of weavers opting out of this profession with every passing day
• The lack of proper training facilities

One of the immediate ways of tackling the above obstacles is by showcasing to private players, the plethora of opportunities present in this industry. This calls for a proper sales pitch to these players, a pitch that outlines the current status of the industry, the opportunities present and the benefits of entering the industry at such a time. Effective presentation of the above points should then lead to the setting up of buyer-seller meets. These buyer-seller meets would bring both parties abreast of the current situation in the industry, thereby helping them carve out a future plan that would benefit both parties involved.

Players such as Fab India, Bombay Store and the likes are known for promoting Indian products laden with culture and heritage and Kullu handloom definitely does fall into this category. There has also been an increasing trend in social entrepreneurship where private players scout for a dying art and does all that is possible to preserve the same. The time has now come to cash in on this trend and open the doors to the private players. This step, if implemented well, will go a long way in revival of this dying tradition and ensuring that “Kullu Shawls” carve out a brand for themselves in the years to come.

The above article has been written by Ajay Simha and Pooja Adiga. Both of them are students of S.P. Jain Institute of Management and Research, Mumbai. They are currently on a 6 week internship with My Himachal as part of their DOCC (Development of Corporate Citizenship) program. They are working with My Himachal to put into place a strong revival mechanism for the traditional Kullu Shawl weaving industry and one of their immediate plans includes the privatization of this industry.

The Industries Department would also be implementing the ‘Handicraft Weavers Comprehensive Welfare Scheme’, which aims at providing insurance cover with enhanced insurance benefits and better health facilities to handicraft weavers, an official spokesman said.

Giving details, he said that it was to make sure that the weaver community becomes economically self-reliant and has better medical facilities to their access.

A health insurance scheme would provide health cover to the family of the weaver, which includes his wife and two children the spokesman said. The families who would avail the scheme would be required to deposit a premium of Rs 69.56 every year. Weavers who have at least 50 percent income from handicraft weaving are eligible to avail the benefits under this scheme, he added.

The annual limit of availing medical assistance under the scheme would be Rs. 15,000 per family, he added.

The scheme would be implemented through ICICI Lombard General Insurance Company Ltd. Interested weavers have been asked to contact the telephone numbers 0177-2628902 or 98166-47379.

The Mahatma Gandhi Weavers Insurance Scheme would provide enhanced insurance cover and medical insurance to weavers, in case of natural death, death by accident, complete or partial disability. The condition of 50% of income from weaving applies to this scheme also and can be availed by anyone between 18 to 59 years of age, the spokesman disclosed.

The beneficiaries of the scheme would have to deposit an annual premium of Rs. 80 and this scheme was being implemented through Life Insurance Corporation of India. Interested persons can contact 0177-2629231, 98161-84801.

The number of weavers has reduced by around 50% over the last decade. More and more weavers are leaving the profession to jump over to occupations that promise them greener pastures. Those still sticking to weaving are migrating to Ludhiana, where they have the opportunity to work in a more organised environment. The power looms in Ludhiana, are swamping the industry with their mass production and low cost capabilities. A short survey amongst locals, tourists, weavers revealed the following startling facts.

— 38 % are unaware that Kullu Shawls are handcrafted

— 70 % could not differentiate between a handmade and a machine made shawl

— 72 % were ignorant of the Handloom Mark

— 0% of the respondents had seen any communication/ads on Kullu Shawls.

— 75% wanted product diversification in line with emerging fashion trends

— Most tourists are misguided into buying machine made shawls due to lack of authentic information

Thereby an awareness campaign aimed at spreading awareness on the situation in the industry, the GI, the handloom mark, etc is the need of the hour. The “Save the Weaver” campaign was initiated with this objective in mind. As a first step, the campaign targeted the print media covering all the local newspapers. It also targeted the online channel using the NGO’s website, blogs, mailers, etc. The HPTDC (Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation) has a lot of reach when it comes to communication and advertising within Himachal Pradesh and the students felt that the corporation should take an active step to spread awareness on the issue.

Presenting their findings before Mr. Prem Kumar Dhumal, the Honorable Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh, the students were of the opinion that a collaborative effort between the Government, NGOs and private entrepreneurs was required to save this industry. No single player could do it alone.

“Awareness is a major problem. We should take steps to improve awareness on this issue”, opined the Chief Minister.

The students impressed upon him, the need to bring together the industry in a more organized and unified setup. They also emphasized on the goldmine, namely the huge untapped demand and market potential that the industry was sitting on. Lack of awareness & market accessibility were the main problems.

“The government will provide you with whatever support you require. I am looking forward to seeing your report. We will take necessary steps after seeing your recommendations”, the CM asserted.

The CM also concurred with the students that the Tourism Industry needs to play an active role in spreading awareness on the Kullu Shawls. The majority of the customers for Kullu shawls are tourists after all.

The students were then directed towards the Principle Secretary, Govt. of Himachal Pradesh, Mr. Subhash Negi and the Secretary for Tourism, Mrs. Manisha Nanda. The IAS officers quickly understood the gravity of the problem and promised complete support from the Government. The secretary of Tourism noted the recommendations of the students and promised to incorporate the messages through HPTDC offices, hotels, brochures, hoardings, etc as part of the new Tourism campaign for Himachal Tourism.

“Your work should not stop here. You should come back next year to see if these recommendations are implemented”, opined Mr.Negi

]]> http://himachal.us/2008/04/30/government-ngo-collaboration-can-spell-success-for-the-kullu-weaving-industry/5355/general/anooph/feed 2 http://himachal.us/2008/04/20/save-the-weaver-is-weaving-dying-in-kullu/5290/general/anooph http://himachal.us/2008/04/20/save-the-weaver-is-weaving-dying-in-kullu/5290/general/anooph#comments Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:22:59 +0000 Anoop H http://himachal.us/?p=5290 You never know what you have been missing until it arrives. This adage can’t be more apt than for the weavers here. The folks in this valley are just plain contented. Either they have very little aspirations or very high levels of self satisfaction.

According to the 1995 census, Kullu district had 28,500 weavers. 12 years hence, officials can only approximate the number to around 11,000. Is the industry dying? The bitter truth is that people have begun to opt out of what has always been their part time occupation as other sources of livelihood are found to be more lucrative. The wages paid to the workers on a piece wise basis are meagre. The irony of the situation is that there has been an exodus of weavers from Kullu to Ludhiana which is posing a threat to the handloom industry. Little do these weavers realise that the wages are no better in Ludhiana. The only difference is the work culture that prevails in the two regions. Those at Ludhiana follow a strict regime of 8 hours of work per weaver per day while in Kullu it is left to the weaver to decide his work hours. As the weavers exercise their right to free will they put at stake their earnings and end up with a measly sum of Rs. 105 per day at the rate of Rs 15 per basic shawl woven. The low turnout of workers makes it cumbersome for the society to cater to the demand in the market, resulting in low profits, which in turn results in low wages and few incentives for people to be associated with this profession. The vicious circle continues.

While some associate the inherent lassitude among Himachalis to the climate here, some others believe that for a state which thrives on tourism, quick alternative sources of income prove to be more attractive to the locals. A basket of fresh handpicked apples can fetch them more money than can a day’s work on the handloom. The face of the industry changes with the turn of the season. The maximum production happens in the winter when other avenues of income slow down. Moreover, the hilly terrain in itself poses hindrances for the weaver to reach the work place. The state government could be forthcoming in this regard by providing concessional passes to the weavers for commuting from the nearest bus stop to the work place.

In spite of the multitude of schemes that have been introduced by the government for those organized as societies and self help groups, how well have the benefits been percolating to the grass root level is still a matter of concern. The awareness level about the welfare schemes is low among the weavers themselves. There is a dire need to disseminate information about the schemes and for this purpose local melas, festivals and traditional street plays could be used as effective channels. Cases of exploitation of the weavers by owners of societies who confiscate their handlooms, delays in payment of wages etc. can be curbed by unionising the weavers and by making the existing Weavers’ Association more active.

The future would continue to seem bleak until the concerns of the weavers who happen to be the lifeblood of the industry, are addressed. All they need is to be given a fair chance. After all its something that they duly deserve…

While most tourists are misguided into buying machine made shawls sourced from outside Kullu, some others are lured into buying them because of the bulky discounts (sometimes as high as 50-80%). The economies of scale on the power loom and the reduced cost of raw materials (due to the local presence of processing centres and spinning mills) make it possible for Ludhiana and the neighbouring areas to influx the Kullu markets with elaborately designed shawls, with finer fabric, offered in a wider palette of colours at throw away prices.

Tourists with an urban taste and the intention of taking away a couple of these shawls as souvenirs are definite customers for these shawls. But the problem that looms large is about tourists being unable to distinguish between a handmade shawl and a machine made one. There is a lot of evidence to prove that a large section of informed tourists definetly value a handcrafted shawl more than the cheaper machine made one , but they just lack the knowhow to distinguish between the two. As a result they end up being duped into buying machine made shawls at the price of a hand made shawl.

A litmus test for such tourists is to see the reverse side of the woven garment. If the design appears the same either ways, that’s an indication that the shawl is handcrafted. The government of India has also introduced the handloom mark which is a certification that the product is handcrafted and not machine made. The mark costs 60 paise per unit. While some major players that are organized as societies do incorporate this mark to establish their credibility, there is a major slack in the implementation of this mark as a large cross section of the weavers and consumers lack awareness on the importance of this mark. The bigger players also have acquired the international WoolMark certification that establishes the quality standard of the raw material used. However, the exorbitant fees required to acquire this certification has kept others from applying for it.

Thus, although the raw material is sourced from the same location, the presence of the WoolMark on the shawls of some of the influential players attracts a major population of the quality conscious consumers to these branded shawls. In order to combat competition from shawls that are sourced from outside and labelled as ‘Kullu Shawls’, the district has acquired a Geographical Indicator (GI) for the Kullu Shawls. The GI mark signifies that the product has been handcrafted in the Kullu district. By definition it seeks to protect the Kullu weavers from the external power looms and strives to help build a stronger indentity for the Kullu Shawls. A violation of this mark would include a monetary penalty of Rs. 50,000 to Rs. 3,00,000 and/or imprisonment for 3 years.

For the common consumer the difference between the handmade shawl and the machine made shawl is apparently subtle. However, a closer look at the two would bring out the merits and differences between the two. The finish rendered to the handmade shawl is comparatively coarser as it helps retain more warmth. The designs on the handcrafted one are typically ‘Kullu’, like the ones found on the Kullu caps here. The dyes used are organic, eco-friendly and are non toxic on the skin. The acrylic dyes used in the machine made shawls, which make it possible to weave myriad hues into the fabric, are identified as carcinogenic. Moreover, the original properties of the fibre are maintained in the handloom as it is subjected to lesser tension and stress as against the power loom where the yarn becomes brittle leading to breakages in the fibre. This consequently reduces the life of the machine made shawl. The design of the handcrafted shawl is born purely out of the skill of the weaver and is impossible to replicate on the machine.

It’s believed that beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. So for those who can perceive value in the exclusivity of a handmade shawl and appreciate the efforts that go behind it’s making, a conscious decision to make a deliberate choice between the handmade and machine made shawl is only natural.

Is it that one doesn’t care enough to make an informed decision while buying or is it that one fails to see the value in a handcrafted product?

I am afraid it’s both. On one hand, tourists have little or no time on their itinerary to go searching for an authentic store and are more often than not directed by their local travel guides or the rickshaw drivers and cabbies to one of the numerous bogus shops that sell machine made shawls at hefty discounts (sometimes as high as 50%). A setup of a few handlooms in the periphery of the store serve as a perfect backdrop to disguise the machine made shawls as handmade shawls. While the tourist walks out of the store with discounted shawls, the local guide walks away with his share of commission, thus making this whole money making act a farce in the name of tourism.

On the other hand, as consumers, we fail to recognize the value of a handcrafted product. The value of art does not reside in the price we pay for it, but in the efforts that have gone into making that masterpiece; that masterpiece which is born out of the dexterity of the weaver, his eye for weaving an intricate design from his own palette of colours, the long hours of adeptly crossing the warp and woof to create kaleidoscopic patterns on the fabric, creating designs which by no means can be replicated on a programmed machine that churns out batch after batch of immaculate shawls at the press of a button. The power looms can produce a shawl in a couple of minutes while the weaver spends an average of four days to weave an elaborate design on his handloom. We must learn to appreciate the beauty of inherent imperfections in a handcrafted product that renders it it’s exclusivity. No price is too high to pay for unadulterated art, be it for the purity of the wool, the sanctity of the natural organic dyes or the simplicity and genuineness of the heart of the person who is making it.

]]> http://himachal.us/2008/04/18/save-the-weaver-an-eye-opener-for-tourists/5264/general/anooph/feed 1 http://himachal.us/2008/04/18/the-campaign/5263/general/anooph http://himachal.us/2008/04/18/the-campaign/5263/general/anooph#comments Fri, 18 Apr 2008 09:50:35 +0000 Anoop H http://himachal.us/?p=5263

The campaign will carry a series of articles dedicated to the Traditional Kullu Shawl Weaving industry. The art of weaving is a part of the Kullu tradition and pride. Many here believe this art would die with the turn of the generation, as it is no longer considered lucrative by the locals. In our efforts to revive this industry, we present a hotchpotch of views, ideas, opinions, facts and ground realities. The main intention of this campaign is to spread awareness about the state of this industry, its bottlenecks, brainstorm possible ways of removing them and to generate enough interest amongst the public to help the weaver regain his lost glory.

…help him weave colour into his life again

Are we crucifying Art at the altar of Technology?

Are the benefits of development restricted only to those at the top of the pyramid?

Are those at the grass root level being exploited?

Do we as consumers bestow enough faith in the genuineness of the product that we buy?

Do we think twice before we buy?

Do we value the beauty of a handcrafted product?

These are some of the questions that remain unanswered in the valley, even as thousands of weavers spend days on their handlooms, in their tiny houses, in the most inaccessible corners, with unparalleled dexterity with the warp and the woof, creating the most exquisite traditional designs.

For a weaver the challenges are many, the possibilities infinite. Illiteracy makes these weavers oblivious to the extent of their own capabilities and skills. With the meagre wages, the inaccessible markets, the threat from power looms, the lack of entrepreneurial drive, and the exploitation associated with illiteracy, the average weaver has a hand to mouth existence. Slowly but surely he is being pulled deeper into the spirals of poverty. For survival he has started exploring greener pastures which guarantee him a quick income.

SAVE THE WEAVER is as much about securing the source of livelihood for the locals here as much as it is about preserving the rich heritage of handlooms in the valley. The art is dying, and with it will die the sense of pride associated with this great Indian tradition. These weavers do not need your sympathy. All they want is a fair chance to prove themselves and weave colour back into their lives. We urge you to come forward and help us create awareness about the problems faced by the weavers and help this art regain its lost glory.

If you would like to join hands with us, you can reach us at savetheweaver@myhimachal.com

Shawl making is an age old tradition, a heritage, a rich legacy that has been passed over from generation to generation in this wonderful valley. The hand made Kullu shawls are known to be vibrant in colours, rich in designs and is guaranteed to keep you warm.

As we set foot on Kullu soil for the first time, we saw this wonderful art choking and dying a slow and painful death. Consumer awareness levels are painfully low. The threat of power looms, looms large on this industry. More and more weavers are leaving this profession in search for greener pastures.

It is our duty to try to educate people about the gravity of the situation. We, a bunch of management graduates from SP Jain, Mumbai are attempting to study the industry , identify bottlenecks and suggest ways to remove them.

This is a small survey we are doing as part of the project. This survey intends to gauge consumer awareness levels on Kullu Shawls. It will not take more than 5 minutes of your time to complete the survey. Please do fill in the survey and also forward the link to your friends. The results will go a long way in corroborating our hypothesis.

PLEASE FILL UP THE SURVEY!

Lets all try to “Save the Weaver”

Photo by: Mokshananda